Humidity is one of the hardest things to get right, in my opinion. I’ve definitely had my share of hatch losses due to incorrectly calibrated thermometers! Humidity Control It is common for cheap incubators to run hot or cold. I like to use probe thermometers and poke them through a vent hole. Tip #2: Make sure that you have several additional thermometers placed in your incubator (placed at the height of the top of the eggs) to confirm that your built-in thermometer is reading true. Forced-air incubators should be set at 99.5 degrees whereas still-air incubators are higher at 102 degrees, however, this is a general guideline and I would follow the instructions in your operating manual. Tip #1 : Identify if your incubator is forced-air or still-air. Such peace of mind! If your incubator has a manual turn dial for temperature and your room temperature goes up… your incubator temperature will also go up. Therefore, it’s helpful to have an incubator that automatically adjusts throughout the day to keep things stable. If it runs 1 degree low, you’ll have a late hatch with chicks prone to crooked toes, thin legs, and unhealed navels.If it runs 1 degree high, you’ll have an early hatch with chicks prone to splayed legs and trouble walking.Just a 1-degree difference can impact your hatch. ![]() Splurging for forced air is worth every penny, in my opinion. This results in all of your eggs developing similarly and often, a better overall hatch.
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